Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
jeremyw

USB-C to USB-A adapter for webcam?

Recommended Posts

I somehow managed to get the last Streamcam Plus webcam anywhere (or so it would seem) but did not realize that the USB-C cable was not removable and did not come with an adapter. Does anybody know how to use this on a 2013 MacPro (trashcan) with an adapter? I tried one USB-C to USB-A adapter that came with a drive and it did not work plugged in directly nor through a powered USB 3 hub. Are there special adapters that will make this work? Since the webcams are sold out everywhere I'd love to keep this one and get it working. I sent a request to Logitech but no response yet. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A standard USB-C to USB-A adaptor should work.

Make sure it's USB 3.0 though

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like I said, I did try one - it came with an external SSD drive bought less than 2 weeks ago and works perfectly well for data transfer at high speeds. Not on the StreamCam, though... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you tried any other ones? seems to be a bit hit & miss on the adaptors as some reviews on B&H mention the same thing.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1547008-REG/logitech_960_001280_stream_camera_plus_graphite.html/reviews

Quote

Nice Unit - Works Perfectly
ByJ Curtis


Like alot of folks I was looking for a web cam to work from home. I got one of these and it certainly does everything I need it to do. Gives crisp streaming video for meetings and webinars. The microphone does a great job. All in all - it is everything I need. Some folks complaint that the USB C connection won't work with a USB A... don't listen. Just get a USB C female to USB A male adapter and its pure plug and play.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most adapters should work. I use one with an adapter I had from Amazon. Just be aware that your FPS will be capped from 60 to 30 when on an adapter.

Edited by Scott Karlins

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi...the requirements seem really high for a webcam, even a 1080 one at 60 frames. If it was not so expensive I'd say to just get it and see how it works. 30 frames at 1080 will be smooth also, maybe one of the 920 or 930 models will work for you.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • New Posts

    • According to Panasonic the most common problem is that the camera shuts down by itself. Has anyone had that problem?
    • On further reflection what I have in mind isn't going to work anyway over a long period of time without proper sync even an external recording from the Z6 is going to drift relative to a separate audio recording. As far as I can tell there's no way to deal with this without a camera with a genlock input. The Ninja-V with the AtomX sync can record timecode but doesn't retime the input and only uses the genlock also available via the sync accessory for playback. There also doesn't seem to easily be such a thing as a retiming HDMI to SDI converter with REF IN as far as I can find. The audio side of things is easier as even on a relative cheap device like a Sound Devices Mix Pre 10 II it's possible to send word clock in to the BNC input and timecode to the aux input from a device such as a Ultrasync One. I guess the problem is simply too niche as it only crops up in broadcast where everything is expensive or long recordings of things like concerts with separate audio.
    • It is a great camera. I actually bought the S1 in preference to the S5 as I wanted the more solid build, plus full sized HDMI and top screen display. One of the autofocus features I use the most is the tap to focus (can't remember exactly what is called). I recently filmed in a factory using a crane, so had my phone running Lumix sync via WiFi, and then was able to set a focus box and tap on my phone screen to set the focus area.  It worked flawlessly, plus the ability to also remotely set iso, white balance, shutter speed and aperture was amazing. The fact it takes fantastic photos is a bonus too.  I do agree with you about the limited lens options. However their quality is stunning, and if you're going to stick with the system then the investment makes sense. I hope you get the opportunity to do some travel videography 👍 and thanks for taking the time to write up your experiences.
    • Funny you mention the monopod - I use one on the base of my S1 with the stabilisation turned on and get very nice results. I have a Ronin S, but to be honest I still prefer the vest system I mistakenly sold after believing all the hype about gimbals. I think you're right in the direction of adding mass to the rig, particularly when it's offset, and if you can couple this with a camera with decent stabilisation the results are excellent and with almost zero setup. I do ninja walk though... I also would be interested if anyone has an alternative solution.
    • Hi, I'm Steve - videographer, editor and CGI dude. New shooter is my go-to site for video related stuff so delighted this forum has been created. Big user of MFT and full frame, but try not to be a fanboy about any particular system. Technology is there to serve us, not the other way round 😃
×
×
  • Create New...