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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/17/20 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Greetings all... I'm Kevin McRoberts, your basic pudgy bearded camera guy. I'm based just far enough outside of DC to stay sane, but still get regular DC work in the documentary, corporate, and commercial realms. My favorite pastries are eclairs and all other pastries. Due to frequently shooting training media in hospitals, surgical suites, and bio research laboratories up to the BSL4 level, I don't get what all the fuss is about (ask me for any video biosafety tips). I once temporarily repaired a CJ5 driveshaft with a long strip of waxed cardboard and a quarter. I do not suffer from Asperger's (I have it, but don't suffer). Skunks frighten me moreso than bears. My stint in small market local broadcast news lasted exactly 7 weeks (9/2010-10/2010). My wife is way too hot for me. The last three songs on my Pandora shuffle playlist were: Angel From Montgomery - John Prine; Knuckle Down - Man Man; The Road Goes On Forever - Robert Earl Keen. Matthew Allard is my all-time favorite light reviewer. My pop culture frame of reference ends abruptly around 1997. All of the sound guys I hire are named Matt (coincidental... I think). My Lowel kit still makes me happy. I am the spitting image of a middle-aged Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov. I don't think a football is a very good Christmas present. Pleased to be sharing pixels and wisdom and occasional idiocy with you all
  2. 1 point
    While we're on about monitor issues, I thought I'd elaborate why I've really started to dislike my Atomos Shinobi. The main issue is the very slow startup and shut down process. Pressing the on/off button once gets the monitor going, but it takes around 10 sec before it displays what the camera sees (which take about 2 sec to start up/ shut down). If you have a blank SD card in the slot (because Atomos didn't provide a cover for the slot), it takes 20 sec to display what the camera sees. Then when you want to turn the monitor off, you have to hold the on/off button for at least five seconds before it turns off. If you let go too soon, it won't turn off. This is really becoming a nuisance given that the button is so deeply recessed that it would be virtually impossible to turn off accidentally. Being well aware of the specs before I bought the Shinobi, I thought I could live without it having a separate power input and just the battery slot. However, I'm finding it less than ideal having owned it for a while. Instead of an input to allow monitor calibration (why would you bother?), it could have had a power input socket instead (like every other, even dirt cheap, monitor). But I'll bet if it did have a separate power input, Atomos would have designed it in such a way that you couldn't have both connected at the same time. And in reviews, no one talks about these issues.
  3. 1 point
    When Blackmagic released the Studio Camera (back in 2014, if I'm not mistaken), I felt it was a terrible decision to use a Micro Four Thirds lens mount, because the lens selection was terrible for the application. There were and are no MFT servo zooms, which basically knocks the Studio Camera out of the running. I've only ever seen a single unit out in the wild. Sure, you could use a B4 adapter and hope the lens has a doubler, but that's less than ideal from an optical standpoint. Five years later, there are still no MFT servo zooms. In the meantime, Blackmagic has released the Studio Camera 2 in HD and 4K, two models of Micro Studio Camera, and the Pocket Cinema Camera 4K (which is now being advertised as an ideal unit for multi-cam in coordination with the ATEM Mini), all of which have a MFT mount. Consider also the Z Cam lineup and the fifty billion other MFT cameras that do video. There are a number of Super 35 zooms, so it seems to be possible. Canon has the cine-servo lineup. The Fujinon MK lenses are available in MFT, but they lack a first-party motor and are designed for S35. Am I crazy? Or is this actually a legitimate product category that has yet to be addressed? I just want to be able to take a GH5 or E2 and work as fast as I do with a 2/3" ENG cam.
  4. 1 point
    True, there are the adapters, and they work alright. But that's not really what I'm looking for. I want Fuji or Canon to release a servo zoom with a native 4/3" image circle. Obviously if you want a large zoom range, you have to either have a huge lens or a small image circle; that's one big reason why ENG still relies so heavily on 2/3" cameras/lenses. To me, Micro Four Thirds seems like the perfect "large" format for ENG: The dimensions make for an easy conversion from 2/3" to 4/3" using a lens's built-in doubler Short flange distance adds flexibility in adapting from other lens mounts Still fairly easy to pull focus on; definitely easier than full frame/super 35 Obviously there are additional concerns to be addressed. But I think the concept is solid and that there would be an audience for such a thing.
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